Making a laminar flow 2 m high and 4 m far

View previous topic View next topic Go down

Making a laminar flow 2 m high and 4 m far

Post  peter.lefevre2@telenet.be on Wed Sep 14, 2016 11:48 am

Hello everyone.

I am Peter from Belgium.
I'd like to make a laminar flow fountain because my lovely wife saw one and she absolutely loved it.
Actually, I wanted to make three of them and place them in a cascade – to have a little more of a challenge.
While I was searching the internet, I came across this site where I found the necessary information and ideas.
Thanks to you all for that.

So, I started building one, testing and playing a little, trying to make it work.

First I made an excel-file to calculate the fountain.
You just have to enter the wanted height and range of the water jet together with the diameter of the nozzle.
Excel will calculate the angle in which you have to place the fountain – necessary pressure of the pump (not taking the pipe resistance in account)
By putting different values of the diameter of the straws and the tube, Excel will calculate also the Reynolds number.
This number should stay under 2300.
That's the first time I could use the theory I learned at school in practice.

The composition is looking like this:
• A PVC tube with a diameter of 160 mm , length 300 mm.
• The bottom has a cap you can take on and off, glued to the PVC tube .
• The upper side of the PTFE (teflon) disc with a hole in the middle – perfectly flat.
       In this hole there is a braze nozzle, conical 9 mm.
• In the tube there are straws, diameter 8 mm – length 220 mm
       The straws are kept in place by 2 window screen pieces.
• Waterinlet is a 1” nippel – mounted at de bottom of the PVC tube with a curve 90° inside  – the bigger the inlet and water pipe the lower the flow  
       resistance – the further and higher the water jet.
       There are no sponges used – I noticed no difference if the sponges were places or not – and again, the less resistance, the further and higher the water
       jet – instead I used an extra window screen piece.

http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/54/21/55/img_3318.jpg
http://i97.servimg.com/u/f97/19/54/21/55/img_3320.jpg

• Pump info : 5 m³/h – 0,5 bar
• Low pass filter, height 1 m – diameter 160 mm



Assembly dimensions :
• 3 cm of free space
• 1 extra window screen piece
• 2 cm free space
• 1 window screen piece
• 220 mm straws
• 1 window screen piece
• 3 cm free space
• teflon disc with brass nozzle 9 mm indiameter



Assembly LED lightning :
• 1 RGB LED 3 Watt build in a waterproof box.



• 1 PMMA round rod 10 mm – placed in the middle of the tube - end of the rod 2 cm from the teflon disc – nearer to the teflon disc causes turbulence of
       the water jet.
       I tried fiberglass with little success.
• A Arduino Uno with a RGB driver to control the RGB LED – with a little program to make color effects.


Assembly of the cutter :
• 1 stepper motor Nema 17 build in a waterproof box.
• A Arduino with a stepper motor driver TB6560 3A to control the motor – with an little program to create a play of the cutter.




Together with an old PC power supply you get something like this :



- left : RGB driver with arduino underneath
- second : driver stepper motor
- third : arduino for the stepper motor
- fourth : resistance for the RGB LED

It is not so bad for the first attempt.



There are still 2 problems I have :

Problem 1 : the waterjet,

The nozzle is able to produce a water jet of 3 m high en 6 m far – unfortunately with a brake up of the water jet 1 meter after the top of the water jet.
I just want a water jet of 2 m high en 4 m far. But there is also a break up after about 0,75 m after the top of the jet.
I tried everything – new brass nozzles – sanded – extra sanded – smaller outlet diameter – bigger outlet diameter – with and without low pass filter – small or big air bubble in the low pass filter.
Nothing seems to help. Reynolds number is never a problem.
The water jet is very stable.
What else can I try ?

Problem 2 : the cutter.

The cutter is very fast.
Stopping the water jet seems ok.
But when the cutter gets open again, there are a lot of water drops at the beginning of the water jet – not acceptable.
I am sure the reason is situated in the disturbance of the water jet underneath the cutter when the cutter is active.
In this case the cutter is simply a metal strip. I think it should be a special shape.
Is there anyone who has some experience ?

Who can give me some advice ?

Thanks.

peter.lefevre2@telenet.be
Nozzle Newbie
Nozzle Newbie

Posts : 1
Join date : 2016-09-10
Age : 50
Location : Belgium

View user profile

Back to top Go down

View previous topic View next topic Back to top

- Similar topics

 
Permissions in this forum:
You cannot reply to topics in this forum