can't find the Oasa pump

I am having a problem finding the Oasa 5000 pond pump. It has been discontinued in the United States. Can someone please recommend a replacement brand? 1600 GPH.
Thanks
Glenn

I know some people have like the Oase pumps, and I'm sure that anything in that brand would be great as long as you have your gph. Likewise I think any pump with that gph will probably be good enough. I just use a brand that I purchased at my local home depot. Nothing special but it does the job.

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=submersible+water+pump&_frs=1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m359

many pumps at eBay
I dont know how many GHB my pump is, but I have a 2500 Liter each hour pump.

Hi John and liteglow,

I saw that someone had machined a groove into the top and bottom end caps to seal them, I think it is a great idea and will be doing the same thing for my nozzle. I was thinking I would use an o ring on the nozzle also. Since I'm building this for my science museum and expect it to last a long time, should I use 316 stainless steel instead of naval brass? Do you think the sharp edge of the brass will wear from water abrasion over time? Stainless is harder for me to machine.
On another note. Has anyone ever built a levating water display. You use a strobe and a stream of water. If you get the strobe frequency just right the water dropplets seam to freeze in mid air. I'm trying to find out how fast the strobe has to flash. I just rented a nightclub strobe that flashes @ 25 flashed per second and that is no where fast enough. If you get the strobe to flash faster the dropplets will appear to go up.

I've seen some videos of that before! Crazy awesome!

If you are going to use any sort of treated (i.e. chlorinated) water I would suggest using a stainless steel. There has been occurrences of pitting happening in the brass from the chemicals. However that was after months of running it all the time.

If you have the tools the groove with an o-ring is definitely the way to go. Silicone goop should only be used if you have to.

Hi John,

Thanks for the information. I'll order some stainless steel today. I'm sure we will have to treat the water with something.

gwoodward wrote:Hi John and liteglow,

I saw that someone had machined a groove into the top and bottom end caps to seal them, I think it is a great idea and will be doing the same thing for my nozzle. I was thinking I would use an o ring on the nozzle also. Since I'm building this for my science museum and expect it to last a long time, should I use 316 stainless steel instead of naval brass? Do you think the sharp edge of the brass will wear from water abrasion over time? Stainless is harder for me to machine.
On another note. Has anyone ever built a levating water display. You use a strobe and a stream of water. If you get the strobe frequency just right the water dropplets seam to freeze in mid air. I'm trying to find out how fast the strobe has to flash. I just rented a nightclub strobe that flashes @ 25 flashed per second and that is no where fast enough. If you get the strobe to flash faster the dropplets will appear to go up.

Yep, is a matter of frequency. Was your rented strobe frequency variable? If not, try to get one and try on different flash speeds.

Hi pepe,
I ended up ordering a levating water system from a company called Salvin. It's my understanding that it takes more than a fast strobe, timing is also involved. In fact I just recieved the system on friday. I do need to send some of it back because UPS broke it. I tried an adjustable strobe and was not impressed with the results. I would like to make an exhibit that is either adjustable or maybe use two independant systems with the dropletts going up in one and down in the other. I would also like to make it visable from front and back
Glenn