My Project

Thought I would post a few photos of the project I am working on. Its a 8" diameter 18" long jet.







the "O" ring fits very tight around the tube which will allow me to move the fiber bundle up and down with the fountain in operation to adjust for the best lighting.
I will cement on a smaller plexiglass disc to sandwhich the "O" ring.

how are you going to seal the lighting tube?

The bottom end is pretty much self sealing but I will put silicone sealant around the tube just to make sure.
I will be using Endglow Solid Cable, found at (near the bottom of the page)

http://www.fiberopticproducts.com/Endglow.htm

For the fiber optic lighting. I will simply seal the light end with silicone sealant. Possibly a clear cap of sorts could cover the end.

Looking very good

What LED will you be using ?
And how will you connect the led to the fiber bundle..

You use the same filter as I use

Cheers

I bought a 3 watt RGB LED on ebay... bright as hell... will connect an RGB controller to it too.
I have a small metal box which will hold the LED, heat sink and power connections.
One end will have a fiber optic connector to hold the cable.
The lens holder and collimator will be attached to the LED and sit in line with the light end of the fiber bundle.

covewi,

Are you in the US? Where did you get the filter pads/articulated foam?

John: I bought my foam\filter from eBay !
Just search for KOI filter.. etc..

Here is a eBay link to the filter I have in my nozzles:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250397744831&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

First - John - Yes I am from the US. I have the same ebay foam in my filter and bought it at Home Depot - a home supplies store.

My question for everyone is - when sealing the top and bottom plates with silicone - do you place the plate on top of the ring and then seal the gap with silicone?
Or do you run the silicone on the ring and then put the plexiglass plate on top of the silicone.
Either way do you let the silicone dry first or do you place the plate or ring on top of the plate into the wet silicone?

I like to silicone the inside and then place the plexiglass plate on while the silcone is still wet!!!! Make sure that you apply it liberally so that it will fill up EVERY tiny gap. Water will find even the smallest gaps!!!!

Thanks for the tip on the articulated foam!

I put the silicone on top of the end plate and then put the end ring on while the silicone is wet. This way makes it easier to remove the end plate (if needed) by cutting the silicone from the outside of the plate.

Doesnt the silicone spread out under the plate?
I tried this over the weekend and could not get plate out?
Any suggestions?
Anyone come up with a better way to "lock" in the top and bottom plates?

Mario has this one.

https://laminar.forumotion.com/laminar-nozzle-talk-and-pictures-f1/new-nozzle-20-with-pictures-problem-solved-t47.htm#524

There is another one just like on the forum, but can't seem to find it! They don't have to use any silicone on there plates at all!

here is how I did mount the lexan glass on the top:





I have silicone, and then place the glass over it with many screws all the way around
I can also remove the glass when the silicone is dry, and place it back again many times !


One more thing, I have some small leaking water from the top (maybe bottom also) but that does NOT matter at all in my project.
Because the laminar nozzle is mounted in water tank, and the "leaking" water just help to remove the air that is inside the nozzle

I did drill one tiny tiny hole in top of my nozzles, that remove the air at startup..
And the tiny tiny holes can also be used to slow down the pressure if it`s to high.

I cut a small plastic disc and used silicone to seal it to the top of the pvc fiber optic tube.
I used a small "O" ring on the top and bottom screens of the straws - it really holds things tight.

No silicone - I secured the ring under the plexiglass with screws and placed a small diameter (aquarium tubing) around and on top of the ring - next i placed the 1" ring on and secured it to the tube - as you can see I drilled and screwed in 8 stainless steel screws around the perimeter and screwed them down to compress the tubing.

No leaks - no silicone - easy to take apart with no mess - did the same on the bottom.



First photo





The splash down is 16 feet and probably 8 high


Need to build a low pass filter this weekend and install the fiber optics

Covewi, looks like a good solution, but I wonder if the tubing will flatten over time and leak. Are you able to compress it enough to collapse the tube?

Great looking stream over a long distance!

Therons

The tubing is stiff yet compresses well - that's what I wanted. I probably flattened the tube by half .
I will have to take notice - if over the long run - if it starts to leak - hope not.

What software and hardware were you talking about using from

http://www.lightorama.com/

Thanks

Bye the way are you from Missouri or maybe TN?

The country side looks like both.

Covewi

Light O Rama announced a pump and LED control board a year ago but have not been able to produce in qty. You can see the spec. sheet here: http://www.lightorama.com/Documents/MLC-100.pdf .

Actually I'm in Utah. Where are you located?

Theron

Theron

Thanks for the info - I am in the Chicago Suburbs.

Hi covewi and guys.

On covewi's closeup picture you see small veins. I would like to know if they result in turbulance and splashing
in the middle or end of the stream. For me thats kinda the case. Its like that if the orifice is not sharp enough
(maybe small craters on the edge) small veins end up getting bigger on the path and get turbulent.

I think Filip (liteglow) also had some problems with that the pumps frequency affected the stream.

What are your experiences?

By the way, i love your design covewi. Better than using silicone.

Regards Steffen

Your probably correct about the cause of the veins. I took a close look at my brass ring and there are some very fine lines on the razor edge.
The next best thing would be to polish the edge or have more accurate ring milled.

I am using a 2.5 HP that is used for our small swimming pool - I have no idea of the GPH output but believe it is very low - this too could effect the stream consistancy.

Therons wrote:Light O Rama announced a pump and LED control board a year ago but have not been able to produce in qty. You can see the spec. sheet here: http://www.lightorama.com/Documents/MLC-100.pdf .

I emailed Light O Rama yesterday about the MLC-100 board and got the following reply:

"We have decided to build a small number of these in the US. The large build in China has simply taken too long -- years at this point. I sent the information out early today and am awaiting the bid to build here in NJ. Usually the build time is 4 to 6 weeks so we will miss another summer, but at least we will soon have some real units that people can buy. Sorry for the delay. Had we know how messed up the China buld was going to get we would have started this build last March."

So I guess I'll wait a little longer.

Newest photo

https://2img.net/h/oi26.tinypic.com/29gkfoj.jpg

very nice... i love it !!